Bouldering and climbing wall - Rozlomity club Kosice Blog Archive Pulled Glue in anchor
In Sunday, September 27th happened to me in Zádieli unpleasant gib thing. After climbing the new road on the edge of the law Twelfth Stienke he did Janko about a month before they pulled my hand spolulezec Igor Lišaník cemented Glue in anchor.
It was the third or fourth in order from the top of the road. Pulled it completely effortless, easy, one-handed, as if it was only inserted into the hole. Way ahead to climb that afternoon gib and another couple and about the corridor in front of her climbing over, I talked with Janko its mooring system and the materials used. Coincidentally, I was the same way two weeks before and accurately from the pay of borkáku gib I Zlan because I nedoliezol gib way due to lack expresiek. The Glue in anchor pulled out, I immediately informed the same day Jerry, but also Embyho Council Staruch and others that I know that go there to climb. What's in this for me then? I stopped trusting cemented Glue in anchor especially after the things I've talked with people who understand and cement professional to be addressed. Despite lower costs and faster Fixing they said it was inappropriate for the safety of the method. On any ordinary cement anchoring is strongly recommended, is two to three times lower tensile conjunction with rock (with limestone) and up to 7 times lower in conjunction with the steel materials, when compared with chemical anchors based epoxies. To anchor are suitable only special cement grout and only in compliance with the technological process. They are mixed with cement and chemistry in their application as needed to moisten the hole 24 hours. gib Another serious factor to assume that the vast extent signed the extraction of the specific Glue in anchor, was its quality. I showed it to several people who are versed gib in the anchoring and identified it as absolutely inappropriate and dangerous. The reason? gib Has inappropriately and inadequately treated surface. Creasing surface does play a key role in redressing materials and obtain the desired strength. Glue in anchor those licks grinder gib in any case does not satisfy. What's next? I think that it is necessary to review the way, planting, as well as the material used, including Glue in anchor and check the cemented and all climbers to highlight what can happen. At the same time avoid abseiling and lowering of fixed points thus planted. If they are somewhere cemented zlaňaky or STAND, it would need to be remodel. Following these findings, it appears rational, unless Glue in anchor not glued chemical anchors, plant a classical expansion rivets with a plaque, as in most most visited climbing areas in the world.
If anyone thinks that exaggeration and does not believe gib the above said, let it be We will consult experts. Regards gib the safety of us all. I recommend contact, for example, the climber Ruda Hajdučík gib from Banska Bystrica, which controls the company gib engaged in production and sale of special cements and concrete mixtures (rudolf.hajducik@panbex.sk, www.panbex.sk)
Regarding the strength of the Glue in anchor. In 10 years, their use is not one without bending or very likely gib broke. In our tests was no problem with Glue in anchor moved. Removing Glue in anchor was only possible gib with a great deal of damage gib rocks. As for the cement. Never been used for bonding gib cement obycajny but Vurt or other anchors cements. Why dany bohrak does not hold, we can only argue because I neosadzal it. Were likely to be some kind of low-quality cement (either frozen or otherwise gib destroyed) which was as usual buying in the store. In doing so, this brand have not been problems.
Advocates rivets? In the world are using them because they are not quickly fitted and secure. Check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE This is not to cause panic, just to show that nothing is black and white. Each fuse has its weaknesses. gib I agree with Jerry, and planted hundreds Glue in anchor evidenced by Michal says
rivets are not a bad choice, but depends on the type of rock (limestone - OK, conglomerate - definitely not OK, granite - OK, sandstone - certainly not OK, etc.). Another thing - the right choice for fusing the rock may still means quality fuse, because it still depends on other factors such as 1) the correct choice of adhesive, 2) suitable temperature, 3) adjusted the hole after drilling, and finally 4) the human factor (qualified and well paid robot) something Says
if it was wurth or other anchoring cement I would have seen it on the error between the seat and the drill - hole to be cleaned badly, badly ... The mixed cement. ???? Having seen and sealed chemistry Glue in anchor pulling gib out complete with Sulky hardening of the glue-Adherent to the rock.
The expansion rivets are already nadristalo enough and I think the general consensus is a recommended all sorts Safety Commission are - not much compared to the bonding Glue in anchor: Capillary water intake into the gap between the rivet and rock, freezing in winter, disturbed rocks ... and most of what rivets
In Sunday, September 27th happened to me in Zádieli unpleasant gib thing. After climbing the new road on the edge of the law Twelfth Stienke he did Janko about a month before they pulled my hand spolulezec Igor Lišaník cemented Glue in anchor.
It was the third or fourth in order from the top of the road. Pulled it completely effortless, easy, one-handed, as if it was only inserted into the hole. Way ahead to climb that afternoon gib and another couple and about the corridor in front of her climbing over, I talked with Janko its mooring system and the materials used. Coincidentally, I was the same way two weeks before and accurately from the pay of borkáku gib I Zlan because I nedoliezol gib way due to lack expresiek. The Glue in anchor pulled out, I immediately informed the same day Jerry, but also Embyho Council Staruch and others that I know that go there to climb. What's in this for me then? I stopped trusting cemented Glue in anchor especially after the things I've talked with people who understand and cement professional to be addressed. Despite lower costs and faster Fixing they said it was inappropriate for the safety of the method. On any ordinary cement anchoring is strongly recommended, is two to three times lower tensile conjunction with rock (with limestone) and up to 7 times lower in conjunction with the steel materials, when compared with chemical anchors based epoxies. To anchor are suitable only special cement grout and only in compliance with the technological process. They are mixed with cement and chemistry in their application as needed to moisten the hole 24 hours. gib Another serious factor to assume that the vast extent signed the extraction of the specific Glue in anchor, was its quality. I showed it to several people who are versed gib in the anchoring and identified it as absolutely inappropriate and dangerous. The reason? gib Has inappropriately and inadequately treated surface. Creasing surface does play a key role in redressing materials and obtain the desired strength. Glue in anchor those licks grinder gib in any case does not satisfy. What's next? I think that it is necessary to review the way, planting, as well as the material used, including Glue in anchor and check the cemented and all climbers to highlight what can happen. At the same time avoid abseiling and lowering of fixed points thus planted. If they are somewhere cemented zlaňaky or STAND, it would need to be remodel. Following these findings, it appears rational, unless Glue in anchor not glued chemical anchors, plant a classical expansion rivets with a plaque, as in most most visited climbing areas in the world.
If anyone thinks that exaggeration and does not believe gib the above said, let it be We will consult experts. Regards gib the safety of us all. I recommend contact, for example, the climber Ruda Hajdučík gib from Banska Bystrica, which controls the company gib engaged in production and sale of special cements and concrete mixtures (rudolf.hajducik@panbex.sk, www.panbex.sk)
Regarding the strength of the Glue in anchor. In 10 years, their use is not one without bending or very likely gib broke. In our tests was no problem with Glue in anchor moved. Removing Glue in anchor was only possible gib with a great deal of damage gib rocks. As for the cement. Never been used for bonding gib cement obycajny but Vurt or other anchors cements. Why dany bohrak does not hold, we can only argue because I neosadzal it. Were likely to be some kind of low-quality cement (either frozen or otherwise gib destroyed) which was as usual buying in the store. In doing so, this brand have not been problems.
Advocates rivets? In the world are using them because they are not quickly fitted and secure. Check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE This is not to cause panic, just to show that nothing is black and white. Each fuse has its weaknesses. gib I agree with Jerry, and planted hundreds Glue in anchor evidenced by Michal says
rivets are not a bad choice, but depends on the type of rock (limestone - OK, conglomerate - definitely not OK, granite - OK, sandstone - certainly not OK, etc.). Another thing - the right choice for fusing the rock may still means quality fuse, because it still depends on other factors such as 1) the correct choice of adhesive, 2) suitable temperature, 3) adjusted the hole after drilling, and finally 4) the human factor (qualified and well paid robot) something Says
if it was wurth or other anchoring cement I would have seen it on the error between the seat and the drill - hole to be cleaned badly, badly ... The mixed cement. ???? Having seen and sealed chemistry Glue in anchor pulling gib out complete with Sulky hardening of the glue-Adherent to the rock.
The expansion rivets are already nadristalo enough and I think the general consensus is a recommended all sorts Safety Commission are - not much compared to the bonding Glue in anchor: Capillary water intake into the gap between the rivet and rock, freezing in winter, disturbed rocks ... and most of what rivets
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